The concept of gender fluidity is now spreading across haute couture. Whether it means including men’s silhouettes alongside the more familiar work designed for a female client or deliberately fluid styles in a high-fashion collection, the expectations of appropriated designs are changing fast.https://www.instagram.com/p/Bzce5BrH8uY/?utm_source=ig_embed
Givenchy gave a show with a tease, as artistic director Clare Waight Keller created the feeling of a seedy ancestral home where the models appeared to challenge couture grandeur with chopped-off hair and messy accessories, but elegant clothes.
‘Anarchic’ was the word the designer used for her show under the soaring roof of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in the heart of Paris.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BzczypRHLWD/?utm_source=ig_embedBy contrast, at the atelier of Maison Margiela, designer John Galliano had a different vision for his new Artisanal collection. As if going back to the early years of his signature brand, he revived a gender-neutral vision that he was probably the first to understand. But this new collection came over more like other shows that the designer has done recently, putting male models in clothes that appear to be designed for women.https://www.instagram.com/p/BzcyfU3HbHZ/?utm_source=ig_embedThe official show notes described it as “Maison Margiela’s ongoing study of decadence… caused by a culture of excess”. The complex text then went on to discuss interesting but ultimately confusing ideas about clothes that should surely speak for themselves.