#SuzyCouture: Is Feminism Fighting Against The White Wedding Dress?

In the case of Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, the absence might be related to the designer’s positive feminist stance. At Chanel, the late Karl Lagerfeld never seemed to be drawn by wedding bells, although the company has dressed many bridal clients. At Valentino high fashion, there was nothing marriage-specific about Pierpaolo Piccioli’s dramatically graceful gowns. Among the upper echelons, only Giambattista Valli is a rare supporter of youthful gowns.

The territory is therefore clear for Elie Saab, who also had a personal reason to bring bridal into his collection: his son Elie Saab Junior will wed in Lebanon on the weekend of 18 July. Only one Saab gown ended the show (although he has been known to have numerous bridal dresses as a finale).

https://www.instagram.com/p/BzpxASZn71O/?utm_source=ig_embedYet from the start, there were garments with the back drape that gives such grandeur and allure. Much bridal wear is based on a great exit line, as various religions have a tradition of the bride and groom married while facing inward, perhaps with a group of close family, but otherwise with their backs to most of the guests.

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Cultural appropriation is increasingly frowned on as fashion inspiration, yet Saab was certainly respectful to this dream world of the Far East which allowed him to produce some great exit lines. The silken fabrics flowing over the runway at the back were at their best when there were no split skirts displaying legs and a high-thigh look at the front.

The overall effect, especially when the regal reds and purples lightened to a soft pink or grey-blue, was of dedication to decoration – for grand gowns, evening gowns or wedding belles.