It is easy to imagine that the Proenza Schouler duo came back to New York from two seasons showing in Paris with their tails between their legs.
Yet the Spring/Summer 2020 collection from Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez was both sophisticated and serene, with sleek tailoring facing-off soft shaping and draping. It was quite a surprise to see the sophisticated summer tailoring in a city that currently has many woman – whether for business or casual – in a dress.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2QeLzvnZz_/?utm_source=ig_embedThe message was a re-working of the tailored suit with a 1980s vibe. The show opened with one of those sharp pieces – a jacket with broad shoulders and buttons low-slung over slim trousers. The look was office-friendly – something that has had little focus this New York season. But a draped top, flashing a modicum of flesh, was worked under the jackets to soften the sharp outline.
That draped-to-be-shaped look was more overt in a dress that spilled down the body, clinched at the waist; or when a sporty top was given a flow of fabric to shape the bust line. The scoops around the bosom were feminine but never vulgar.