suzynyfw-proenza-schouler-coming-home-to-manhattan-from-paris-108790
©Alessandro Lucioni / GoRunway.com

It is easy to imagine that the Proenza Schouler duo came back to New York from two seasons showing in Paris with their tails between their legs.

Yet the Spring/Summer 2020 collection from Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez was both sophisticated and serene, with sleek tailoring facing-off soft shaping and draping. It was quite a surprise to see the sophisticated summer tailoring in a city that currently has many woman – whether for business or casual – in a dress.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2QeLzvnZz_/?utm_source=ig_embedThe message was a re-working of the tailored suit with a 1980s vibe. The show opened with one of those sharp pieces – a jacket with broad shoulders and buttons low-slung over slim trousers. The look was office-friendly – something that has had little focus this New York season. But a draped top, flashing a modicum of flesh, was worked under the jackets to soften the sharp outline.

#SuzyNYFW: Proenza Schouler – Coming Home to Manhattan From Paris-1
©Alessandro Lucioni / GoRunway.com

That draped-to-be-shaped look was more overt in a dress that spilled down the body, clinched at the waist; or when a sporty top was given a flow of fabric to shape the bust line. The scoops around the bosom were feminine but never vulgar.

#SuzyNYFW: Proenza Schouler – Coming Home to Manhattan From Paris-2
©Alessandro Lucioni / GoRunway.com

In their 17 years working together, it has never been obvious whether each designer has a different character. But their compatibility is a bonus and produced some stylish pieces worthy of a couple who are both just past 40.

#SuzyNYFW: Proenza Schouler – Coming Home to Manhattan From Paris-3
©GoRunway.com

The concept of melding sport and chic is hardly a fashion revolution, yet Proenza Schouler made it seem particularly convincing, from the bold earrings (those 1980s references again) to the sporty trousers.

#SuzyNYFW: Proenza Schouler – Coming Home to Manhattan From Paris-4
©Alessandro Lucioni / GoRunway.com

The concept of melding sport and chic is hardly a fashion revolution, yet Proenza Schouler made it seem particularly convincing, from the bold earrings (those 1980s references again) to the sporty trousers.

#SuzyNYFW: Proenza Schouler – Coming Home to Manhattan From Paris-5
©Alessandro Lucioni / GoRunway.com

Put it another way: the designers have come back from their presentations in Paris in a New York state of mind.