#SuzyNYFW: Ralph Lauren Bids For An Experience

You don’t get to 51 years in fashion without knowing a thing or two – and Ralph Lauren pulled off perfectly a corny idea that he made into a sophisticated collection.

The concept was to give a mannish look a glaze of glamour by adding a thread of glitter to a tailored coat or a quirky touch to the classic tuxedo. There were subtle embellishments and even a little joke – the famous Polo Bear with a martini glass moved from ad land to become a sophisticated decoration.https://www.instagram.com/p/B2Io87VnqiX/?utm_source=ig_embedThe lushness of the fabrics and sensual, body-conscious shaping, brought a freshness to the very familiar concept that women look seductive with a sharp, masculine cut on a curving body. Add a black tie as soft embellishment, show the formal stiff bodice against bare skin and that cheeky, slightly timeworn, look seemed stylish and modern.

Other textural play came with feather trimmings, colourful velvet cuffs and even a faux fur decoration – fluffy like an Easter chic against black velvet. Otherwise, there were a few jewel-like explosions of colour from ruby red to diamond yellow. And also, actual jewels in the form of slim, swinging earrings.

But the audience was offered more than just the fashion collection. A live band, 1930s style, and the powerful voice and dancing antics of singer Janelle Monáe, turned the event into an experience. And that word became the leitmotif of the show as Cate Blanchett, in what looked like a tuxedo all-in-one, joined in the dancing.

With model sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid giving a sophisticated, modern edge to a familiar fashion story, the show had a streamlined and even witty glamour. There was none of the edgy sexuality of the iconic 1975 Helmut Newton image of Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking tuxedo jacket – one of the first fashion looks to challenge conventional gender stereotypes. Nor was there any reference to the often ugly and angry current play on gender appropriation. The Ralph Lauren show did not go much further than reflecting the glamorous aura of 1930s nightlife under the light of a chandelier.

But within the limits of the conventional concept, the show was exceedingly well done. And with all that is currently going on in our beleaguered world, it might be the best idea to face the music – and dance.