#SuzyMFW Armani: The Extraordinary Fragility Of Planet Earth

Outside, where the selfie-brigade thronged across the road, there was a presentation of re-launched handbags proving that the designer, back in the 1990s, had already invested in accessories.

“I’m happy with this show – it is modern, but light, not too extravagant – and there are elements of the past, but not too much,” said the designer backstage surrounded by pieces that looked like print, but were actually embroideries and bold jewellery.

The point about an Armani show is the absolute conviction of the designer. He does not waver from his vision of clothes that serve women, never demanding or ridiculous, yet he also yearns to bring out the ethereal female side. For spring/summer 2020 – when he will mark 45 years at the helm – he chose the nymph Echo as a symbol of his vision.https://www.instagram.com/p/B2rYjXJnnsE/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=dlfix“According to legend, all that remained of the nymph was her voice – she is a metaphor of femininity,” the designer said, his vision played out in earthy brown or dark grey colours, moving through blues that evaporated into pink and pearl grey. And it was not just the colours that lightened, but also the fabrics, as georgette, tulle and organza seemed to strive for that “unbearable lightness of being”.

But poetry has never been more important to Armani than his desire to serve women and to bring dreams back to daytime reality for the cropped, form-fitting jackets and slender trousers. The difference this season was that the tailoring was softened with a flat bow worked across the bust or a top in velour, giving a three-dimensional feel to daywear.https://www.instagram.com/p/B2razqbH2QE/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=dlfixAs full summer bloomed in the collection, variations on the slim-lines were leaves patterned like brush strokes and a nonchalant openness as a light jacket swung open over bare skin.

Lighter and lighter, with pastel colours adding to the light-as-air effects that included elongated coats patterned with embroidered flowers and a neckline closed with a rose.

The conviction against female vulgarity, which always lurks in Italian fashion, is at the heart of Armani’s attitude. For this summer 2020 season, it looked like a mission, signed up with a very light hand.